When I first came to Georgia, I was not so sure my photography project on self-esteem would be as achievable as it had been in Bhutan. The principle is to meet with strangers, take their portrait and then meet again to give them a print. In my experience, the self-esteem impact is twofold: the fact that some stranger has taken an interest in one’s life, and has kept his promise by coming back with a print showing the best of oneself.

Georgians are impressive physically and they look surly at first. It is quite common to attend memorable arguments between people on the street and no wanting to take part of it. So it was not with great confidence that I went with my camera to Samgori market.

The place is busy, full of colors with people selling, buying and fixing all sorts of things. One has to navigate carefully among a fleet of hand-drawn carts carrying goods around. It is also an ethnic melting pot with people originating from all over the Caucasian region, Russian being the most commonly used language.

Part of the area operates as a flea market where second-hand articles are sold. It is very informal and vendors either sell their family belongings or are specialized in a few specific types of products. Here, life is an economic struggle in the open air.

The pictures I took on my first visit were not very promising: some general scenes and a few half-stolen bad portraits taken in haste. I was wondering if I could break the ice…

But I went again with some prints and gave them back, as bad as they were… and the magic happened. The ice did not only break, or melt, it sublimated, with one picture! Compared to the contained reactions of the Bhutanese (Buddhism obliged), people in Georgia can be very effusive, I guess that is what one would call the Slavic soul. I’ve found myself hugged by colosusses or kissed by babushkas (and vice versa). Each offered photo is an event not only for the recipient but anyone in the surroundings. I often leave the place with a bouquet of flowers, a handful of fruits or even a peeler! I’ve now been a number of times to Samgori and despite the language barrier I feel like I am in a in known and friendly territory.

People now stop me to have their portrait taken and I do my best to meet all expectations, including lots of group portraits…

… as a fair trade in my search for a good portrait.

More pictures of Samgori market here