In Gori, an hour drive from the Georgian capital, we have a date with Besarionis dze Jughashvili, native of the area, who is better known as Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin. Stalin was born in Gori in 1878 and despite all the well documented abuses during is ruling, he still has cult status among some.

Gori is probably one of the last places in the world where one can see a statue of Stalin in the public space, and visit a museum to his glory, located on the avenue bearing his name. The falling snow completes the sovietish ambiance of the place.

We access to the museum through a long covered walkway with arches. It was built in the 1950s and was made to impress. The guided tour is accomplished on the run. Our guide gives her speech in the most monotonic and monotonous tone. She describes Stalin’s great accomplishments without any perspective and it’s hard to imagine for one second she believes what she recites. It feels awkward.

Portraits of Stalin, at all ages and in all circumstances pass before our eyes, room after room, as well as gifts of all sorts he received. It reminds me of Guy Delisle’s depiction of the International Friendship Exhibition Center in his comic book “Pyongyang”.

Towards the end of the visit, a room presents a very peculiar scenography made of subdued lighting, round shapes and wooden pillars. Stalin’s death mask takes center stage. One can only feel the irony of the obviously religious setting for a man who, though he was raised to be a priest, became the main instigator of anti-religious persecutions in the Soviet Union and remained a hardcore atheist until the day he died

In the park next to the museum stands Stalin’s childhood home. It is a small brick house enshrined within an impressive Greco-Roman pavilion. It summarizes singularly Stalin’s life trajectory: a mere mortal of modest condition who set himself up as an infallible, irritable and retributive character.

Opposite to the museum, an add (so symbolic it is cliche) cries the victory of capitalism to passerby ears, and reminds everyone that Stalin has lost the battle, despised by all, except maybe the people of Gori.

More pictures of Gori here