[la version française est ici]

As I have told before, I visited Samgori market almost every week from November to last June, to photograph the people who work there. I had a lot of encounters over time. But then I left, for summer break, after having promised I would come back.

It is now September, I’m just back from France and I’m getting ready for my return to Samgori but I am full of doubts. Life has gone on at Samgori market, they don’t care, they have forgotten for sure! The anxiety of spoiling my return is even stronger as Salomé, who used to come with me and translate for me the voices of Samgori is not available anymore, now that she has a full time job. Also, I haven’t touched my Nikon for two months, instead taking with me to France a Fuji compact camera, which I find not as good for portraiture. Therefore I have every reason to dread going back, worrying like a pupil on back-to-school day after a long summer break, and I have been postponing my return several times for the last three weeks. And then this morning I steel myself, grab my camera bag and go. Once there, I still back off, using as an excuse a sudden passion for the buses passing by on the avenue …. the joys of procrastination!

I feel rusty, a little shy, but the smiling faces as I show up, the obvious pleasure at receiving pictures taken two months ago and the many requests for new portraits quickly put me back on track. I am called upon all over the place as soon as I step in the first alley to make more portraits. As if a family, the relationship seems strengthened by the temporary separation.

An unusual excitement prevails, as if people don’t want to miss the opportunity after I was gone for a while. Bottles, plastic bags and boxes that stand too much are put aside to not spoil the photo, customers also are moved out of the way and the body language seems to say “wait a minute, don’t you see we are in the middle of something important?”. This enthusiasm is touching. Nobody is concerned about what I could do with the photos and I feel honored by the trust.

These are simple photos, I agree and accept the criticism, but for me they say a lot through the mixed feelings, sometimes contradictory, that can be red on the faces: pride for what one does, for what one is, but that may turn into awkwardness, shyness in front of the camera, the desire to be photographed, but the fear to see one’s own image, the fear of disappointment, sometimes the fear to have one’s image stolen. They also unveil trust setting up, mutual respect, accepting the other, a moment of benevolence. Since we were born we have been learning to decipher feelings on the faces around us. It doesn’t take much: a pout at the corner of the lips, a squint, an eyebrow raised, a head leaned, a chin brought up, an infinite and amazing combination of little things full of information.

In light of comments received, I will include more wider views of the market to share the ambiance. But portraits remain my favorite for sure. I will also try to write more often to share the many anecdotes I gather through my visits.

Some streets vendors are back after last spring’s big “clean up” decided by the municipality. These hawkers settle and sell aromatic herbs (a light product easy to quickly pack up) until the police shows up. Their stress is obvious and the relationships with potential customers suffers from the tension.

There are still many very old people who work on the market. Pensions are not enough to live for most retirees in Georgia. If relatives can’t help they must manage on their own. I also have the feeling the number of beggars in Tbilisi has gone up in the last year but I noticed the situation was worse back in France this summer.

Even after months roaming the market I still discover new parts. This time I come across miller’s alley. The air is full of flour dust which seems to whiten beards as well.

Taking a break with my visits to Samgori market, and rediscovering pleasure after overcoming my apprehension, makes me think about the underlying reasons why I take these pictures. I am not sure what I do is art. I doubt everyday. It may be more an act of mutual benevolence, an excuse to reach out to others. But I guess the world needs as much humanity as it needs art.

More photos of Samgori market